Color
fastness to Dye Transfer in storage (AATCC 163, option 1)
·
Purpose: Dye transfer occurs when products are folded with different shades
in intimate contact with each other. Normally the amount of dye transferred is
intensified when moisture is present, and thus the problem is more severe
during warm, humid weather or when products are steamed immediately before
storage.
·
EQUIPMENT:
·
• Perspiro meter
·
• Plastic bag, polyethylene, large enough to contain the perspiro meter
·
• Multi fiber adjacent fabric, type DW (ISO 105-F10)
·
• Distilled water, grade 3
·
• Glass beaker having the capacity to hold 50 ml of water
·
• Light box with light source D65
·
• Grey scale for assessing change in color (ISO 105-A02)
·
• Grey scale for assessing staining (ISO 105-A03)
Colour
fastness to Dye Transfer in storage (AATCC 163, option 1)
TEST
SPECIMEN
·
One specimen for each color and material measuring 4cm x 10cm.
·
All contrast colored (when compared to the product it is attached on)
textile labels, textile badges, other textile trims, prints as well as leather
details need to be tested.
METHOD
·
1. Cut specimens measuring 4cm x 10cm of the each sample to be tested.
·
2. Cut the multi fiber and fabric sample in the same size.
·
3. Immerse the multi fiber and fabric sample in distilled water at room
temperature (24±3)°C.
·
4. Prepare a sandwich with the test specimen between pre-wet multi fiber
and the pre-wet fabric sample.
Colour
fastness to Dye Transfer in storage (AATCC 163, option 1)
·
5. Place each specimen between two glass or acrylic plates and place them
in the perspire meter. Each perspire meter can hold maximum 10 samples. If
less, all 11 plates still have to be placed in the perspire meter. Put a
pressure of 12.5 kPa on the perspire meter using the load, lock it and then
remove the load.
·
6. Enclose the perspire meter in a polyethylene bag along with a glass
beaker containing at least 50 ml distilled water to maintain high relative
humidity in the polyethylene bag.
·
7. Let the perspire meter stand in upright position at room temperature
(24±3)°C for 48 hours.
·
8. Take out the specimens from the perspire meter. Open out each specimen
and dry them well with the specimen only being in contact at the point of the
stitching
RESULTS:
·
Assess cross staining, change in color and color staining.
ICI
pilling (ISO 12945-1)
EQUIPMENT
·
• Pilling box
·
• Sewing machine
·
• Polyurethane tubes (four per test)
·
• Self-adhesive PVC tape, 19 mm wide
·
• Mounting jig, used to mount specimens on the tube
·
• Vacuum cleaner
·
• EMPA photo scales
·
• Pilling viewing cabinet
ICI
pilling (ISO 12945-1)
TEST
SPECIMEN
·
Each test requires 5 specimens. Four specimens are tested and one specimen
is saved for the assessment
·
1. Cut 5 test specimens from the sample, each 125mm x 125mm.
·
2. Four specimens are to be sewn into tubes; one specimen is to be saved
for the assessment. Fold two specimens in length direction and two specimens in
width direction with the face side inwards.
·
3. Form a tube of each specimen by sewing a straight seam 12 mm from the
cut edges.
·
4. Turn each specimen inside out.
·
5. Mount one specimen on each polyurethane tube by using the mounting jig.
The specimen ends shall be on equal distance from the ends of the tube. Ensure
that both seam and seam allowance lie as flat as possible.
·
6. Apply self-adhesive tape around both cut ends of each specimen, so that
the tape fixes the specimen onto the tube and leaves 6 mm of the tube exposed.
The length of the tape shall not exceed 1.5 times the circumference of the tube
ICI
pilling (ISO 12945-1)
METHOD:
·
1. Ensure that the pilling box is clean inside. If not, vacuum clean the
pilling chambers.
·
2. Place the four specimens in the same pilling box. Close the lid and
secure it by closing the clasps.
·
3. Tumble the tubes the number of revolutions stated in H&M
requirements.
·
4. Remove the tubes from the box. Remove the tape and cut the seams.
Result:
·
Grade each specimen in accordance with EMPA photo scales as well as the
grading scheme.
Bursting
strength(ISO 13938-1/2)
Applicable
in Jersey products in 100% natural and/or
regenerated fibers.
·
Bursting time: 20±5 Sec
·
Result in KPA
·
Testing Area: 7.3 cm²
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